I’ve been to Yosemite Firefall twice. Here’s my advice for first-timers

I’ve seen Yosemite’s annual natural phenomenon Firefall at Horsetail Fall twice. The first time was a happy accident; I was in the park on a February day with friends and noticed the valley seemed a little busier than usual for winter. I asked a ranger who seemed slightly surprised by my cluelessness. She helpfully explained that for a few weeks each February, Horsetail Fall turned glowing pink at sunset on clear days. 

We followed the crowds walking toward the eastern wall of El Capitan, found a spot, and watched as the thin shadow of an ephemeral waterfall (the beautiful term for a seasonal waterfall, which are plentiful in winter along the dramatic cliffs lining the valley) turned into a gold ribbon, and then into what looked like a gently undulating trail of soft pink fire for just a few minutes before the sky faded into dusk. 

It was mesmerizing. So this past year, I decided to revisit the experience, this time onboard Rush Creek’s Firefall Express, a shuttle from Rush Creek Lodge, a resort about a half mile from the Highway 120 West Entrance. 

Real talk about Yosemite Firefall

As Firefall has become more popular over the years, logistics have gotten trickier. Though Yosemite implements the reservation system for the weekends of Firefall to limit park visitors, parking is still tough. Many people opt to park in one of the valley’s big lots and take a shuttle over, but it can take upwards of an hour to catch a shuttle on the way back. To park and get a good spot, you need to show up at least an hour-and-a-half before (a lot of people get there even earlier). The pro tip here is that on weekdays, Firefall is just as glorious, but the crowds are smaller and you don’t need park reservations.

There are no guarantees that Firefall will happen on any given day. On my second visit, the sky had been clear all day—a positive indicator of a good viewing, since it need the setting sun to stream across the valley at a certain angle—but about 45 minutes before, the valley was engulfed in clouds. Luckily the weather passed within about 20 minutes, but it was a good reminder that nature needs to cooperate for the magic to happen. Some people near me said they were staying in the park and coming a few days in a row to increase their chances of a good viewing.

As to whether it’s more or less impressive in photos or IRL, there are arguments for both takes. For me, seeing it in person was a downright amazing experience (that’s why I’ve been twice), and being in a big group of people who have all paused their daily lives to watch a little waterfall glow pink in the sunset feels pretty special. But listening to a group of people near me who had looked at hundreds of Firefall photos online, it seemed like they found it not quite as impressive as they’d expected. And I get that too: you only see it for a few minutes, the waterfall is quite thin against the massive stone face of El Cap, and the pink of the backlit falls tends to look brighter with the filter of a photograph. 

Practical advice about Firefall

How to get there

If you’re going on a weekend during Firefall (check the NPS page to see what the dates are for the year), you’ll need an advance reservation to get into the park. 

Parking and walking (or biking): There’s street parking in limited areas in the valley, so if you’re aiming for parking along the side of the road, expect a 15-30 minute walk to the viewing area. You can also park in the Yosemite Falls parking lot and walk (it’s 1.5 miles each way). If you have a bike, you can also park wherever and then cycle to and from the viewing area. Just remember your bike lights so you’ll be visible at night.

Parking in a lot and taking the bus: A lot of people opt to park in the large parking lots at Yosemite Village and Curry Village and then take the shuttle to the El Capitan Picnic Area, one of the prime areas for viewing. Just keep in mind that there are super long lines afterward to get back on the buses. 

Shuttles: Some of the hotels near the park including Rush Creek Lodge and Evergreen Lodge offer shuttles down into the valley. These aren’t tours, but they do make the experience a lot easier, since you’re not in charge of driving or parking, and you can borrow gear like camping chairs.

Gear

Speaking of gear, the two main things to remember when packing for a Firefall trip are that it gets cold in the Yosemite Valley in February, and there’s a lot of waiting. I recommend bringing the following:

• A comfortable perch: Bring a chair or a blanket so you’ll have a comfortable place to sit and wait while you wait for the magic moment. 
• Warm clothes: Even if the weather is mild, it still gets chilly in the early evening. Layer accordingly. 
• Something to pass the time: To score a good spot to see Firefall, you’ll want to arrive early, but that also means waiting around for one or two hours. Bring a book, a magazine, a deck of cards, or a game.
• Snacks and water: There’s not a camp store nearby, so you’ll need to bring something to munch on while you wait. And don’t forget the water bottle.

One final note

See this? This is the long line for the very small bathroom in the campground. If you need to use the restroom, be sure to give yourself plenty of time so you don’t miss the main event!