I’m not sure if it’s habit or tradition, but something strong keeps pulling my family and I back to Indian Springs Resort & Spa in Calistoga. As a weekend getaway from the SF Bay Area, it’s just right. At a little under two hours from San Francisco, it feels far enough away to disconnect and close enough to be an easy drive.
Though it’s most popular in summer, I prefer staying in late fall, winter, and early spring. Here’s why: the weather is a little cooler, which makes the steam rise off the Olympic-sized mineral-spring-fed warm pool in a way that looks and feels like a cocoon of warmth and wellness. And in the off-season, everything feels more peaceful, making it the perfect family-friendly escape with the right mix of relaxation and fun.Â
The geothermal mineral pool really is the highlight for us—spacious, warm, and perfect for swimming especially when it’s chilly out. There are a ton of pool noodles piled to one side of the pool, and I love grabbing a few and tucking them under myself so I can float for hours. If you’ve got early risers, a sunrise swim is not to be missed. Equally amazing is a night swim, when you can gaze up through the steam and look at the stars. I recommend packing several bathing suits so you can take multiple dips a day. There’s also a smaller adult-only pool and a truly wonderful spa. On my family’s last visit, our 13-year-old got a teen facial and was on Cloud Nine for hours afterward.
The property itself is beautiful, with lush grounds and a laid-back yet upscale vibe. I like the off-the-beaten-path rooms in Palm Row at the back of the property. If you’re looking for easiest access to the pools, the cottages, which are charming, rustic, and quiet, are a good option. The two-bedroom cottages are especially convenient for families. Just be sure to request two twin beds if you have older kids or want more space.
The resort offers plenty of activities that are free and fun: bocce, ping pong, cornhole, badminton, chess, shuffleboard, bikes to borrow, and even a chicken coop. Food-wise, there’s a cozy on-site restaurant called Sam’s that’s open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. We usually eat at Sam’s multiple times during our stay as we love the range of items on the menu and the service is fantastic. We recently visited with family who had both peanut and gluten allergies, both of which were accommodated well. Â
For some activity between pool trips, downtown Calistoga is a short walk from the resort. It has small-town charm with a dash of wine country sophistication—boutiques filled with locally made goods, a wonderful independent bookstore perfect for lingering on a rainy afternoon, and art galleries tucked between charming cafés and ice cream shops. The restaurants range from casual family-friendly spots to upscale wine-country dining, and nearly every place we’ve tried has had warm, welcoming service. It’s the kind of town where you don’t need a plan; you just wander, pop into wherever catches your eye, and somehow end up with a new favorite place.
